Friday, March 20, 2009

Silustrani chulpas (funeral towers)


Silustrani is a great spot for a morning's wandering around a pre-Inca royal graveyard. Some thousand years ago and more, local inhabitants were burying their important people inside tall, well made stone towers. Unfortunately for their dearest employees, they also sacrificed and buried them too, to look after their masters in the next world.
We sorted a taxi from Puno to take us there. Dad perked up from another bout of general malaise, and so Simon was relegated to the boot for the trip out to the funeral tours.  It all started well, he was stretched out with cushions from the hotel to pad things out. However, it turned a bit sour on the way out of Puno when the local corrupt police check point stopped out taxi, proclaimed that Simon's boot occupancy was illegal (fairly ridiculous when you see how many people are shoved into any vehicle that will move) but that rather than getting out of it or paying the full fine, we could pay a smaller amount and go on our way. We did this and on the way back, he ducked.
On the way back, we stopped off at a local family's house who are used to receiving tourists. We sampled a variety of local potatoes (more of this on a food entry) and saw a local curiosity - a llama foetus and a dead flamingo - both to be used in traditional medicines. The llama foetus will be included in a fertility soup.

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