Staying on Lake Titicaca

Lake Titicaca is quite an amazing place. Looking out across the lake it is very hard to believe that you are standing nearly 4000 metres above sea level and not at the seashore itself. The lake is so big it would nearly stretch from Derby to London. The water is calm and the air is thin so the horizon stretches out a long way giving some spectacular views. As soon as the big towns are left behind, around the lake is probably the most peaceful, tranquil place I have ever been.

We took an organised 2 day trip to islands on the lake, spending one night with a local family.

On the first morning we visited the floating islands of Uros. Traditionally, these people had lived on the islands to escape persecution on the mainland. These days they live on the islands because tourists come and buy things. Being dropped off to stare at people who just needed our money wasn't great but the floating islands were very interesting nonetheless. The island wobbles slightly beneath your feet as you walk across the dried reeds. 

A little model of how the islands are made from layers of reeds

We left the floating islands having enjoyed a relaxing trip in a traditional reed boat. The next leg of our journey was interrupted by a very unfortunate Japanese lad on our boat who looked most unwell and could barely muster the energy to talk, let along walk.  This is apparently what can happen in extreme cases of altitude sickness. We dropped him and his friend off by the mainland where he was carried onto a local minibus and on to hospital. We know not what became of him, but he probably had to return to lower altitude and is no doubt feeling a lot better now.

We carried on then to the island of Amantani. 

We got off the boat, climbed some steep steps, and found a curious line of traditionally dressed local folk waiting for us. We stood in our own line of traditionally dressed travelling folk and there ensued a strange kind of stand off until we were paired up and dispatched to our host families' homes for the night. We enjoyed a nice lunch and rest at our family's house. The family consisted of a couple and their baby daughter, plus the girl's dad and the fella's mum. Quite an odd set up. The star of the group was the father who was very friendly and chatty without trying to sell us anything (unlike the mother and son who did at every opportunity). 

We headed up the mountain on the island for a beautiful sunset leaving my mum behind as the altitude combined with her dodgy hip were not conducive to the steep climb. There was quite a gathering of travellers at the top but we couldn't believe our luck when we wandered 10 yards down the other side of the hill and had to ourselves one of the loveliest cafes you could hope for. 

Enjoying a mate tea just before a glorious sunset
There were lots of children at the top of the mountain trying to sell us bracelets they had made. Eventually we gave in.
A magnificent setting for a football stadium but playing at 4000 metres would take some effort. 
In the evening after a nice vegetarian meal produced entirely on the island, we were dressed up in traditional costume by the grandmother of the house. I got away quite lightly with a poncho and a fetching hat, mum and Rachel were wrapped tightly in several layers of skirts and a tricky to keep on head scarf.

We stumbled up paths through fields in the dark to the local community hall where some other similarly daftly dressed travellers from our party were waiting. We supped beer as a band of assembled youngsters performed charmingly rustic local tunes for us. One of the boys on the panpipes and whistle flute seemed to be quite talented. The others appeared to have been thrown into the band with little notice.  When they sang it was really bad.
We all had to dance round and round with our host families. Mum looked quite the part with the grandad from our house. We wondered if she might be tempted to stay.
Negotiating our way off the boat

We got back to Puno safe and sound after a lovely couple of days. Dennis and Sue were waiting for us there and we all enjoyed one last evening meal together before waving them off on a very early start the next day for their flights home, and going back to bed.